What is Embroidery?
Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric and garments using needle and thread. It has been practised since ancient times and, over the centuries, has expanded far beyond clothing — today it is also used on furnishings and household articles. Beyond its decorative value, embroidery is also considered a relaxing, therapeutic activity for the person doing it.
Designers frequently combine stitching with additional decorative materials — beads, sequins, and stones of different shapes, sizes, and colours — to further increase the value and visual appeal of a garment. Because fashion trends keep changing, embroidery itself keeps evolving: new stitch combinations, motifs, and experimental techniques are constantly being introduced.
The Two Types of Embroidery
| Type | How it’s done | Where it’s used |
| Machine Embroidery | Produced using manually operated or (more commonly today) electrically powered embroidery machines. Computerised machines can reproduce the same design on many garments simultaneously. | Widely used in ready-made garments because it is fast, neat, and consistent. |
| Hand Embroidery | Designs are stitched entirely by hand using needle, thread, beads, sequins, and stones. Different Indian states have developed their own traditional hand-embroidery styles. | Used where uniqueness, elegance, and traditional craftsmanship matter more than speed. |
While machine embroidery wins on speed and repeatability, hand embroidery retains an important place in fashion because of the beauty, uniqueness, and elegance that only handwork can deliver — which is why both techniques continue to be used side by side in the industry.
Traditional Embroidery Styles of India
A Regional Craft Map
India’s states have each developed their own hand-embroidery identity, shaped by local materials, motifs, and stitching techniques. Recognising these styles is essential for a fashion designer working with Indian textiles, since each style carries its own visual signature and cultural association.
| State | Embroidery Style | Distinguishing Features |
| Punjab | Phulkari Embroidery | Floral embroidery in brightly coloured silk thread on cotton or khaddar fabric; traditionally worked from the reverse side of the cloth. |
| West Bengal | Kantha Work | Simple running stitches worked on layered old sarees/cloth, forming motifs such as flowers, birds, and folk scenes. |
| Karnataka | Kasuti Embroidery | Fine geometric and temple-inspired motifs; no knots are used, so both sides of the fabric look almost identical. |
| Uttar Pradesh | Chikankari | Delicate white-on-white embroidery from Lucknow, with floral and paisley patterns and intricate stitching. |
| Gujarat | Kutch Embroidery | Colourful work decorated with mirrors (shisha work), geometric designs, and vibrant silk threads. |
| Andhra Pradesh | Kamal Kadai Embroidery | Traditional floral embroidery built around lotus (kamal) motifs, common on sarees, dupattas, and decorative textiles. |
| Rajasthan | Metal Thread Work (Zardozi) | Rich embroidery in gold and silver metallic thread with beads, sequins, and pearls — typically bridal or royal garments. |
