A Short History of the Needle
In ancient times, sewing needles were made from bone, wood, and horn. Later, steel became the standard material. Because steel rusts, needles are usually wrapped in silver paper and stored carefully to keep moisture away from them.
Choosing the Right Needle for the Work
Not all embroidery needles are the same: some jobs call for a sharp point, while others need a blunt tip. As a general rule, the higher the needle number, the smaller the needle. Special needles also exist for special fabrics, such as even-weave cloth and canvas.
| Needle Type | Point | Typical Use | Size Range |
| Tapestry Needle | Bent or blunt tip | Counted-thread embroidery on even-weave and canvas fabrics. | — |
| Crewel Needle | Sharp | Free-style embroidery (the most commonly used general needle); size 10 is finest (single strand), size 1 is largest (up to six strands). | 1 – 10 |
| Milliner Needle | Sharp | General embroidery work requiring a long, sharp needle. | — |
| Chenille Needle | Sharp, large eye | Ribbon embroidery, and any work needing a thick thread through a large eye. | 16 – 26 |
| Bead Embroidery Needle | Fine | Working with beads — a size 10 needle is generally used. | 10 |
Two quick rules worth remembering: for counted-thread work on even-weave or canvas, reach for a Tapestry needle rather than a Crewel needle. And when you see a Crewel needle size, remember the scale runs in reverse — size 10 is the smallest and finest (for single-strand work), while size 1 is the largest, able to carry up to six strands of thread.
Choosing and Handling Thread
Embroidery thread must be chosen to suit the fabric being worked on, and the number of strands used can be increased or reduced depending on the stitch. Stitches such as Long & Short Stitch and Satin Stitch, for example, are best worked with just a single strand. Because thread can twist and tangle while stitching, care should always be taken to prevent this — and colour combinations (including fade-resistance) deserve careful attention when selecting thread.
The Thread Family, Type by Type
| Thread Type | Key Characteristics & Use |
| Stranded Embroidery Thread | The most commonly used hand-embroidery thread; six loosely twisted strands that can be separated as needed. Especially popular for cross-stitch. |
| Perle Cotton / Pearl Cotton | Thicker than a single strand of stranded cotton; made by twisting two plies together. Suited to Hardanger (drawn thread work) and cross-stitch. |
| Rayon Floss | Nicknamed ‘shinest embroidery floss’ for its bright, silky look. Knots and tangles easily, so work with shorter lengths and wipe occasionally with a damp sponge. |
| Metallic Thread | Shiny and eye-catching, but fades and breaks relatively easily; mainly used to highlight designs, quilting, and embellishment. Synthetic metallic versions reduce damage risk. |
| Wool / Crewel Yarn | From sheep’s fleece; used for crewel and tapestry work. A single strand is much thicker than other embroidery threads. |
| Tapestry Yarn / Persian Yarn | A soft but thick thread for heavy materials like canvas; used for crewel work and needlepoint. |
| Silk Thread | Attractive and lustrous but fades relatively quickly; steaming finished silk work restores brightness. Often paired with metallic thread. |
| Knitting Yarn | Used for knitted items (scarves, sweaters, blankets, socks); thickness is chosen to match the item. |
| Variegated Thread | Contains multiple shades within a single thread, varying along its length; available in cotton, rayon, silk, and other fibres. |
| Cord & Beading Thread | Used for ornaments, decorative articles, leather stitching, and couching. Nylon is common because bead embroidery needs a strong, durable thread. |
| Ribbons | Not technically thread, but used with a needle the same way to create flowers and dimensional embroidery motifs. |
| Crochet Thread (Mercerised Cotton) | Used for doilies and crochet work; mercerised (shiny) versions are preferred for attractive results. |
